Algae Cosmetics

Introduction

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Therefore, efficient antioxidants such as marine algae which are rich-sources of metabolites can be used to fight against oxidative stress that leads to skin aging [9].

Microalgae Vs Macroalgae

Microalgae, also known as blue-green algae or cyanobacteria, are prokaryotic, microscopic unicellular algae with an approximate diameter of 1-50 μm. Macroalgae are eukaryotic, macroscopic, multicellular algae, widely known as seaweeds. The habitat of macroalgal species is marine water or seawater with the optimal availability of light. Macroalgae can be divided into three major groups based on their pigmentation:

• Chlorophyceae (green algae)
• Phaeophyceae (brown algae)
• Rhodophyceae (red algae) [10]

Extraction Of Algae

Algae are sold directly as food and nutrient supplements, but for usage in biopharmaceuticals and cosmetics, algae must be extracted or processed. Novel extraction technologies for main bioactive compounds including proteins from marine algae include enzyme-assisted extraction, microwave-assisted extraction, ultrasound-assisted extraction, supercritical fluid extraction, and pressurized liquid extraction [11, 12].

Microwave Assisted Extraction (MAE) is used to obtain aqueous extracts of Baltic seaweeds to be applied in agriculture as biostimulants [13]. Freshwater algae C. glomerata extract is prepared via supercritical fluid extraction and brown seaweed Sargassum plagyophyllum is extracted in ethanol-water mixture. Both are considered as effective raw materials for moisturizing, firming and as anti-wrinkle agents [14, 15]. Fucoidan is extracted from the brown alga Ascophyllum nodosum by an innovative low-chemical process [16]. Seasonal variation of Fucoidan in three species of brown macroalgae, Fucus serratus (FS), Fucus vesiculosus (FV) and Ascophyllum nodosum (AN), are found to be 6.0, 9.8 and 8.0 wt% respectively with highest quantities extracted in autumn and lowest in spring [17]. Fucoidan from Laminaria japonica is extracted using Chitosan as extractant [18]. Fucoxanthin, effective in protecting skin from photo-aging [19] can be extracted from brown seaweeds by using enzymes, water, low‐temperature dehydration and mechanical blending [20]. Algal products, such as micronized algae and extracts of algae, should be prepared according to a set of regulations and standards, which vary from country to country and it involves various steps and technique to obtain high‐value and safe algal products for cosmetic industry [21].

Algae In Skin Care

Vitamins in algae act as a natural anti-aging complex, activate the skin, protect it against environmental influences, and fight free radicals, whereas Chlorophyll, similar to the haemoglobin, contributes significantly to the oxygen supply of the skin [22]. The incorporation of macroalgae-derived ingredients in cosmetics has been growing, as more and more scientific evidence points to their skin health-promoting effects [23]. Algae extracts from Laminaria, and Nannochloropsis, seaweed such as Undaria pinnatifida and microalgae Thalassiosira Nannochloropsis are found effective in skin hydration and restoration of trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) as they contain several molecules with moisturizing properties such as polysaccharides, fatty acids (sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mannosylerythritol) and proteins [24]. Studies on two microalgae, Undaria pinnatifida extract (containing 85% fucoidan), and Fucus vesiculosus co-extract (containing 60% fucoidan) showed that fucoidan helped in skin immunity, soothing and protection [25]. Euglena gracilis, a unicellular eukaryotic alga, upon anaerobic incubation for three days, were found synthesizing amino acids such as arginine, alanine, leucine, lysine, and valine which commercially have been used for cosmetics [26]. Research has demonstrated the potential use of marine microalgae and cyanobacteria in Thalassotherapy, which involves using seawater and all related marine elements [27]. Presence of radioprotective phytochemicals, such as phlorotannins, polysaccharides, carotenoids and other compounds in marine microalgae have been explored which could be used as ingredients in cosmetic formulations for providing protection against ultraviolet radiation [28]. Apart from marine microalgae, freshwater macroscopic green algae species (e.g., Chara fragilis, Cladophora glomerata, Ulva flexuosa) may also be a rich source of macro- and micronutrients as well as other bioactive substances such as fatty acids, polysaccharides, pigments, polyphenols, etc. Research on freshwater macroalgae for cosmetic applications is currently lacking [29].

Recent Skin Care Products

Japanese beauty company Shiseido has recently developed a patented (WO2018074606A1) new anti-aging active ingredient Stemlan-173 which effectively protects the degradation of laminin-511, that improves skin texture, rejuvenates skin, and protects the decrease of epidermal stem cells. Shiseido has claimed that the algae extract, from green algae, red algae and brown algae, acts as an active ingredient to promote the production of laminin-511, which decreases with aging [30].

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L’Oréal Paris’ skin experts have created a super-charged pure exfoliating clay mask enhanced with Red Algae Extract to exfoliate and refine skin in just 10 minutes.

Gallinee’ s Face Vinegar is a toner, containing a cocktail of hibiscus vinegar, is known for its astringent and purifying properties; algae prebiotics help to calm stressed skin and prevent irritation and redness.

AlgEternal Technologies has introduced a new line of microalgae-based skin care products AlgAllure AlgaRiche in Texas. The line uses a patent-pending, proprietary marine red microalgae extract AlgEternal having trade name PhycoDerm, which, according to the company, minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, hydrates the skin, and protects against visible signs of aging.

Algenist’s first color-changing, transformative mask is formulated with a prebiotic from algae, a good-bacteria probiotic and patented Alguronic Acid. This product balances, detoxifies and boosts radiance for a healthy, glowing complexion.

Algenist launched the Genius Sleeping Collagen, a supercharged overnight treatment that promises plump, dewy skin by morning. The components in the formula include the brand’s patented alguronic acid (which helps skin retain moisture) and microalgae oil, which is naturally rich in omegas 3, 6 and 9 and vitamin E.

Lip peeling booster by Innisfree (Amorepacific) contains algae extract that has been used as an active ingredient to exfoliate lips by rolling the product gently with fingertips thus creating smooth lips.

Collaborations

Start Up Activity

ALGALO INDUSTRIES COMPANY LTD.:Established in 2011, as a start-up – for microalgae growing technologies, the company is located in Kibbutz Ein Hamifratz, Israel.

Vison: Global leading in Algaculture and Algae-based products.

AUTHOR

Dr. Baisali Sarkar